Please have a look through our Blog. Paul Platt and staff of Apex
Training will place items on the site informing you what we are up to
and information about courses.
Paul Platt has
also joined the Twitter revolution and he can be followed by clicking
the image here
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last minute ML course places |
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Written by Paul
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Sunday, 08 August 2010 |
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This is a list places available on our ML courses:
• August ML Training course has one place left.
• August ML Assessment has four on the course but due to two people potentially joining our course there maybe two places available.
• September ML Training has four places available.
• September ML Assessment has four available
• October ML Assessment has one place available.
Bookings can be made online. I'm away on holiday this week but will answer emails as soon as I can. |
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Written by Paul
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Friday, 25 June 2010 |
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I've just returned from the ML course that Stu Halford mentioned in the previous blog. Two night navigation sessions from 11pm to 2.30am/3am meant we were all a little tired. As usual the feedback from the training team was very positive for both the accommodation at Holly How and the instructional team so thanks to Simon, Ben and Mark. Neil directed the assessment with myself assisting and of the six we had four successful candidates, one deferral for navigation and unfortunately one person pulled out so technically that has to be a fail.
Places are filling quickly on all courses so if you wish to have a place it's best to get a booking in soon.
Paul Platt
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Written by Stu Halford
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Wednesday, 23 June 2010 |
As I write, colleagues are preparing to venture out for night navigation (it's not properly dark yet) on the current Apex Mountain Leader Assessment programme, or indeed packing rucksacks for the Training course expedition which begins tomorrow. Earlier this month I was involved with other well attended Apex Mountain Leader courses and one of our series of Single Pitch Award courses. We have a healthy schedule of MLT courses running between November and March each year and, we like to think, a team of staff who are busy enough to stay current, but not too busy to stay keen.
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Written by Stu Halford
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Wednesday, 12 May 2010 |
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Stuart and Sam have been in the Irish Republic recently doing some rock climbing work and getting some of their own climbing and bouldering in. Visiting counties Cork, Kerry & Clare meant a bit of travelling but around every corner there is spectacular scenery and the crags are usually deserted. If the weather is kind as it was to us, you have the ideal combination. The surfing, stout and seafood chowder are to be recommended as well.
 
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Written by Simon McCabe
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Sunday, 02 May 2010 |
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I Well, as April began my winter finished on a brief but memorable high as
a weeks' winter climbing in Scotland ended after day one when the
weather erupted into three days of fierce winter storms. Having just
climbed the remote Cairngorm jewel known as 'Mitre Ridge' V,6 with two
good friends, the options for days 2-5 were to either spend three days
in a van drinking tea and playing I-spy or to come home and do some DIY
on my new house. Maturity is a wonderful thing but painting is not! Top
tips for Mitre Ridge? - wait for a hard frost at the end of a snowy
winter when there has been a thaw of all snow below 450m. Then hop on
your bikes as the eastern sky begins to light, ditch them at the first
col and leg it to the second col before the sun softens the snow. Get
some of this wrong and up to 5hrs of leg-sapping pergatory could be your
reward. Spring has since arrived finding me directing my first ML
training course of this year which ran from the easter weekend, through a
stormy few days to a calm cloud-inverted camp at the end of the week. A
busy time at the hostel as both the training and assessment courses
were at full capacity with five staff involved. Thanks to Mark, one of
our newest recruits, for his help and hard work during the course. The
nights are drawing out now so Neil and I have been out clipping bolts on
Yorkshire limestone - there are now some great little venues for some
early season finger-strengthening.wrote this a while back but have only just succesfully hacked into the Apex system. Hopefully some pictures might follow.
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Read more...
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Written by Paul
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Wednesday, 14 April 2010 |
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April's SPA and ML courses were all very successful with some very good feedback. All courses were full with four on the SPA training, eight on the ML assessment with five passing, and twelve on the ML training.
We also had two people re-assessed for their ML and both passed.
May's SPA training has four people on it. If there is sufficient interest this could go to eight. There are still places on the assessment course.
Many of the team have been enjoying the great weather and starting the ball rolling with some cragging. I was in Wales last week with the family and managed to boulder a few times and bouldered in Langdale yesterday and again tomorrow evening. Keen to get strong!
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Classic routes in Scotland |
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Written by Paul
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Saturday, 13 March 2010 |
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Paul Platt has just returned from a fantastic trip, once again, to Scotland.
This time climbing with Chris Parkin (AKA Mr Black Ladders). We did two awesome
routes in great conditions Minus 1 and Astral Highway on Ben Nevis. We tried to
do Smiths Gully on Craig Meagaidh but it had warmed up and things were
getting a bit lively on the mountain so we bailed from the bottom of the route.
Ice routes are still in on both crags but the mixed climbing is passed its
best. Probably Church door buttress is the only option in the west?
Well this will be my last trip to Scotland this winter due to work and
family commitments. But what a winter!
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Written by Stu Halford
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Friday, 12 March 2010 |
Stu & Simon sneaked in an ascent of Moss Gill (IV, 5) on Scafell today. Conditions are softening up so we are pleased to have been up there to get the route done. A variety of challenges appear all the way up this climb – great fun. We descended Deep Ghyll, The West Wall Traverse and Lord’s Rake. No one else climbing, but a few walkers around enjoying the uncrowded hills.
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Scotland & The Lakes Still Showing Off.......... |
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Written by Stu Halford
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Tuesday, 09 March 2010 |
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I’ve been lucky enough to bag a good few days out recently with friends from Northern Ireland and the Lakes, every one of them in great weather. With Damian and Kookie, I visited Ben Vane, a Munro which packs a bigger punch than it’s status as the 283rd highest would suggest. Following that we climbed the schoolhouse arête on Sgorr Dhearg (on the Ballachulish horseshoe). Beinn Udlaidh provided some brilliant pure ice climbing the next day for Damian and myself, and on Wednesday Kookie and I climbed the Steall Waterfall in Glen Nevis with our friends, (and many others!) alongside. Back in the Lakes a couple of days later, Ralph and I re-visited Hart Crag icefalls (III) and a few other quality, un-named smears, and a day later Jon and I climbed Steep Ghyll (V4) on Scafell. Impeccable weather throughout – if this is climate change, bring it on!


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Written by Paul
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Sunday, 07 March 2010 |
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Just had a week working for an Outdoor education centre in Coniston.
Fantastic weather and a great bunch of young people. Lovely weekend with
the family and off to Scotland on Monday morning for a few days winter
climbing.
I'll update the blog at the end of the week.
The March and April ML courses are now full. All courses are filling very quickly, best to book early to avoid disappointment!
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Written by Paul
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Friday, 26 February 2010 |
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Paul Platt and Dominic Hoare have just had another awesome trip to Scotland winter climbing. As a friend said when I called him 'Scotland is showing off'. Our intention was to go straight to Torridon in the NW but we got wind that Minus 2 on The Ben was in. We had a very cold night sleeping in my van in the North Face car park and walked into the corrie in perfect conditions. Minus 2 was fantastic, the first pitch is getting a little thin after a few ascents and care is needed but thereafter it's just brilliant.
We were having a meal with friends in Loch Carron in the early evening with plans for an early start to climb on the fantastic Triple Buttress of Ben Eighe. Once again perfect conditions after another cold night in the van. A three hour walk took us into the corrie and we decided to do East Buttress, a three star 400m grade 4,5. Well it was fantastic with cloudless views out to sea, brilliant climbing and good company what more could you ask for.
Our final day in the north took us to another Cold Climbs classic March Hare's Gully. I had to be back in the Lakes for the early evening so we went light and climbed the 3* classic in a couple of hours and back at the van for 1pm. Another awesome route. The weather was changing and particularly grim when we drove through Glencoe.
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Written by Stu Halford
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Sunday, 21 February 2010 |
Another rip-roaringly good day winter climbing in the Lake District. Ralph and I walked in to Scrubby Crag in Link Cove aiming for Pendulum Ridge. The recent marvellous weather has stripped this route of a lot of snow, so we climbed Pendulum Gully (lll) instead. This was in good condition – some soft snow around but nothing desperate. The more technical sections were well iced. No wind to speak of and azure skies for much of the day. We ambled over Hart crag and dropped in to below its North side for a spot of ‘bouldering’, if that’s the right word, to finish. 
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More Climbing Than We Expected - We're Not Complaining! |
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Written by Stu Halford
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Thursday, 18 February 2010 |
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Ralph & I visited Brown Cove Crags on Helvellyn today. Top tip; the crags are not in Brown Cove ! The approach from Swirls car park is relatively painless and there were a good number of folk around, walking, learning winter skills, the odd skier and not too many climbers. We climbed Stepped Ridge (lll). It's in good condition, properly wintery with just a little soft snow over hard snow and turf. We reckon its at least twice the 100m the guidebook suggests and the photo-diagram hasn't got it quite right - where the red line goes straight up after half-height and then curves right, it should diagonal right and then curve left - easy to figure out in the good visibility we had because in this section you find the ‘window' in the picture. A top day out.
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Written by Stu Halford
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Monday, 15 February 2010 |
Yesterday Dave & I made an early start and we were below the crags of Red Tarn at seven thirty. We climbed the old favourite V Corner (lll) and soloed down Gully 2 (l). Dave has really been bitten by the winter bug and fancied some more leading, so we finished with Gully 1 (ll) before wandering down Swirral Edge. Visibility was not as good as expected but the climbing was a real hoot and we were enjoying lasagne and chips in Windermere by two thirty in the afternoon.
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Written by Stu Halford
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Monday, 15 February 2010 |
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Ralph and I paid a visit to the Low Water area of The Old Man of
Coniston yesterday. South Gully and it's neighbours aren't in condition
but the icefalls of Percy's Passage ( lll / lV ) were well formed and
provided great entertainment. Ralph made short work of leading the
middle pitch after 10 years ‘in the wilderness'. We had a sunny ‘first
lunch' on the summit, nipped back down to the tarn and soloed a gully
which runs up the right (North) of the main buttress. Surprisingly not
in the guide, this is a good line to the main ridge and as it's lean at
the moment, had a couple of grade ll runnels on perfect water-ice.
‘Second lunch' followed, again on the summit in the sunshine.
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Fantastic trip to the Cairngorms |
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Written by Paul
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Monday, 15 February 2010 |
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On the 11th and 12th February Simon McCabe, Steve Hall and I had a
fantastic couple of days in the Cairngorms. It was destined to be a hard
getting there as I was meant to be working at a Lake District Outdoor
Centre and needed to get the days off and arrange child care. Well the
forecast was good and Sticil Face, our objective, had been on the list
for 15 years, so it was worth the effort!
We arrived at midnight on Wednesday night and slept in my van. An early
start enabled us to locate a snow hole in Corrie Domhain and leave some
of our kit. We then headed off in poor weather, but light winds to Loch
Avon. The slope felt insecure and after much delay and discussion we
scooted across the slope linking islands of safety to Cascade (V1,6).
This would have been my first lead on ice of this grade but it was not
to be, 10 feet from the angle easing my arms gave out. A bit of frantic
ice screw placing and I lowered off. Simon top roped to the screws and
led through well to the top, good lad!
A very pleasant night in the snow hole and another early start found us
standing outside in early light and more fresh snow. We decided to go
over the top of Hell's Lum and drop into the corrie from there. At
9.50am we were climbing Sticil Face. Steve led the first proper pitch,
Simon the much photographed ice pitch and I led the mixed pitches. It is
a fantastic route, the weather was awesome and we summited at about
4.30pm.
We picked up our sleeping bags from the snow hole and at 7pm we were
back at my van driving back to the Lakes. A brilliant trip!
 
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Written by Simon McCabe
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Saturday, 06 February 2010 |
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January seems like it will be hard to beat, lots of low level ice routes giving plenty of after-work exercise snatching rare gems like Cautley Spout, Low Water Beck and even a cross-border raid for Grey Mare's Tail in the Moffat hills as well as some local hidden gems that must remain a secret.
The high crags EVENTUALLY consolidated into good winter condition and the sun was out for long spells and seemed to shine most at the weekends, can february top all that? Last weekend was the highlight as Dom and I made use of limited time on the saturday to climb Bowfell Buttress (V, 6) in an afternoon - we were happy not to have to climb this classic testpiece with headtorches and thanks to the party who let us go on in front (I think they read Dom's body language exactly right!)
Next day was a much earlier start as we headed to Scafell where we found the Cold Climbs classics of Moss and Steep Ghyll weren't looking in the best nick so we jumped on another 3 star route called Pisgah Buttress Direct (V, 5) which is a memorable mixed outing involving an highly exposed traverse at mid-height and very thin climbing on the top pitch. Harder than BB we both agreed. We also agreed that we are old enough to know better than to race up to the crag at the speed we did. We were determined to get in front of everybody. Determined and very sweaty. Very sweaty and then very cold. One day we will be wise...come on february do your stuff!

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Dollywaggon Pike area - Winter climbing |
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Written by Stu Halford
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Tuesday, 02 February 2010 |
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Paul Rose & Scott and I went to Tarn and Falcon crags on Dollywaggon Pike on Sunday 31st January. After a relaxed start, they climbed & then descended Tarn Crag Gully 2 and then nipped up Dollywaggon Gully. This is a great soft touch grade III with the difficulties concentrated at the chockstone low down and in the icy top pitch. Great fun but the route is now suffering from the many ascents its obviously had recently. It’s well chopped up and there’s some loose rock around the chockstone.
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Winter conditions on Scafell |
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Written by Paul
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Saturday, 30 January 2010 |
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 Paul and Stu Halford had a fantastic day climbing Slingsby's Chimney
Route on the Pinnacle Area of Scafell today.
As you can see the weather was fantastic and the mixed climbing conditions were extremely good with very well frozen turf and a reasonable amount of ice.
Teams were also on Steep Gully, Pisgah Buttress Direct, a couple of routes on the Shamrock and a good looking ice smear to its right which looks about grade2/3?
Looks like conditions will continue into next week.
We'll post anything we hear. Happy climbing.
For hill walking the snow conditions are excellent and full winter equipment is required.
We have winter climbing courses running with Ascent Training and guided climbing days are available throughout the winter.
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